HANGING gardens are ideally suited for balconies and townhouses.

Note, I say “hanging gardens”, not hanging baskets. I see plenty of hanging baskets in gardens, often with plants long since dead!

Hanging gardens do not have to “hang”.

One cheap and effective liner for hanging gardens is foam rubber carpet underlay, the multi-coloured type with plastic on one side. Put the foam outside and the plastic on the inside and punch a few holes for drainage. I have had hanging gardens lined with this material for more than seven years without needing to replace them. Unlike coconut liners (of which the water holding capacity is nil), birds will not pull it apart for nesting material.

Cyclamen in a carpet underlay liner that’s seven years old.

When hanging the garden, make sure the brackets are well fixed to the wall and that the hanger is strong enough to carry the weight. I have baskets I can’t lift off the ground without help when the soil is wet. And always use a swivel hook so that the basket can be rotated for even amounts of sun.

• For container gardens as well as hanging gardens, plant a variety of plants in the one basket for flowering over an extended period.

• For summer colour in full sun, plant bedding begonias, ivy geraniums, pansy, dianthus, nasturtiums, marigolds and lobelia.

• For spring and summer baskets in partial shade consider fuchsias as the centrepiece, gardenia radicans, dwarf ferns, viola, bedding begonias and campanula (Canterbury Bells).

• For year-round colour, including winter, try ericas and heathers, spring flowering ajuga and, for summer use, vinca minor.

HANGING gardens, preferably in full sun, are perfect for growing herbs for culinary benefits as well as for fragrance. Try pennyroyal for peppermint fragrance leaves, marjoram, oregano, sage and thyme. It’s a good place to keep mint under control, too. Or if you want to be really adventurous, try lettuce or other salad ingredients in a hanging garden.

I WISH “Botany for Gardeners” by Geoff Hodge (Allen and Unwin, hardcover, 224pages, rrp $35) had been available when I was studying botany at school.

Expertly presented with colour and line drawings, it is a practical guide on how plants grow, their performance and how to grow perfect plants.

Don’t be put off by its subtitle “The Art and Science of Gardening Explained and Explored”. Whether you have just taken up gardening or gardened for years, I highly recommend this super book.

MERYLYN Condon, the garden presenter on 2CC, is leading a couple of upcoming overseas tours to the Chiang Mai Flower Festival in China in February and to the Chelsea Flower Show in London in May. More information at goseetouring.com

Jottings

• There is no point in having a bird bath unless you regularly fill it!
• Pine needles make a great free mulch, especially when they have started to rot under the loose needles.
• Continue to tie up sweet peas and for best results continue to pick the flowers.
• Remove winter flowering annuals and replace with summer plants such as petunias, bizzie-lizzies and bedding begonias.
• Transfer tuberous begonias to larger pots or hanging baskets.

–from the “The Canberra Gardener”

The post Garden that hangs around appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

VISITORS to Canberra often comment to me about the endless dreariness of our nature strips, usually unmown and unkempt.

Nature strip to lift the soul… in Ebden Street, Ainslie.

While it is easy to make excuses, there are exceptions that lift the soul. I have illustrated here an example seen in Ebden Street, Ainslie demonstrating that, with careful plant selection and little, if any, watering, it can be done with no mowing.

FIRST published in 1979, the latest edition of “Australian Native Plants” (New Holland, 720 pages, rrp $99.95) is the ultimate plant finder.

Written by John W. Wrigley, with excellent photos by Murray Fagg, the book is now in its sixth edition and has enabled amateur gardeners and professional landscape architects to easily identify native plants.

Since that first edition, it has never been out of print and has been the book of choice for native plant lovers since it was first published.

This latest edition has been completely revised due, in part, to the hundreds of new species and cultivars now available. There has been a quiet revolution, not only here but worldwide, on how botanists classify plants.

Every plant is shown with a series of symbols to advise on the suitability for a particular purpose, ranging from their frost sensitivity to bird attracting and soil types. This advice is invaluable when considering plants for your own garden.

The first 100 pages provide all the advice you need on growing native plants, from soils to how to deal with pests and diseases.

Wrigley’s knowledge of Australian plants spans 50 years; he was curator at the Australian National Botanic Gardens from 1967 to 1981 and appointed a Member of the Order of Australia in 1983 for services to the study and cultivation of Australian flora. With Murray Fagg, he has written more than 13 books on Australian plants.

Fagg managed the Botanical Information Unit at the ANBG for more than 25 years and was on the executive of the Australian National Herbarium until his retirement in 2012. This was after an amazing 42 years with the Botanic Gardens.

The professionalism of Fagg’s photography is evident in this new edition, which is available from the ANBG bookshop.

A SPECTACULAR display of roses and potted plants, floral art plus the popular plant stall with all plants grown by members will feature at the Horticultural Society’s “Spring Exhibition and Rose Show” at the Wesley Church Centre, National Circuit, Forrest, noon-5pm, on Saturday, November 16 and 11.30am-3.45pm, on Sunday November 17. Free entry and free parking. More information at hsoc.org.au

THE CITY spring plant sale, which includes a range of seedlings, natives, shrubs, vegetables, flowers and trees prepared by horticulture students, will be held at CIT Bruce (entrance off Eade Street), 9am-4pm, on Saturday, November 16.

Jottings…

• Get rid of saucers under outdoor containers that promote root rot. Lift the pots off the ground, even when on paving.
• Apply Neutrog “Seamungus Crumble”, a crumble form of chook poo and seaweed especially for pots.
• Plant Asters (Michaelmas daisies) now for autumn colour.
• Prune Spiraea (May bush) by at least a quarter to a third after flowering.

The post Strip show to lift the soul appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

THE stunning flowers of the peony provide the “wow” factor, but some people say they are difficult to grow and take seven years to flower. Incorrect, on both counts.

I have planted peonies that have flowered in their first year and when I replanted them last autumn, after a year in pots when we did an extension, these same ones are now coming into flower.

Peonies (Paeonia species) are a wonderful group of plants ideal for our local climate. They grow in Asia to southern Europe and North America. Plus, many hybrids have parents in different groups.

Herbaceous peony

While peonies have been the subject on this page previously, some readers say they are confused with the different types. To clarify, the two main groups are:

Herbaceous peonies are perennials emerging as a crown from the soil in spring. They flower in mid-to-late spring and are quite happy in full sun or partial shade. They mainly originated from the Chinese Paeonia lactiflora with predominantly white flowers or shades of pink, although hybrid red flowers are now available. At the end of their flowering period and as autumn approaches the leaves die down to ground level. The easiest method of propagation is by dividing the roots.

Tree peonies do not grow as trees but rather are sparsely multi-stemmed shrubs. They are extremely showy plants with bright colours (as pictured here in a Manuka garden). They are usually grafted on to herbaceous peony rootstocks as they do not divide or grow from cuttings easily. The best method is to buy already grafted plants. A combination of tree peonies at the rear of a bed and herbaceous in front will give that real “wow” factor.

READERS have asked me to recommend a good book on herbs. My choice is “The Ultimate Book of Herbs and Herb Gardening” by Jessica Houdret (Lorenz Books). First published in 1999 and currently out of print, I noticed copies available from the Amazon website.

ATTENDING a recent Friends function at the Old Parliament House Rose Gardens, I noticed a huge improvement in the health of its roses. Congratulations to Dennis Dempsey, who is overseeing their care and maintenance, and his team for their excellent work. If you have not visited for a while, I suggest that now is the time.

TOMATOES have been the hot topic this spring. I loved this published letter: “To all investors hurting from shrinking mining sector returns, relief is at hand. Quick, lucrative returns can be had by selling repeated (doomed) tomato seedlings in Canberra from August onwards to keen but foolish TV gardeners”.

Most TV gardening shows or glossy magazines are mainly Sydney/Melbourne based.

All you need to do is read my local advice in this very magazine each week, written especially for Canberra gardeners.

Jottings…

• OVERCOME your reluctance to cut back Chrysanthemums at this time, especially when flower buds are showing. Now is the time to cut back the plant by 50 per cent and again in about six weeks’ time. This will result in compact plants with an explosion of flowers in autumn.

• Now is the time to dig up and move spring bulbs that may have been planted in the wrong place. Store them in an open-net orange bag in a cool dry place such as the garage before replanting in full sun next March/April.

• With the magnificent rain, the weeds will come out so easily. Start at the front and work your way all the way to the back fence. Remember the hare and the tortoise, don’t rush, a small area each day.

• For most spring flowering shrubs, now is the time for that last feed once flowering is over until autumn. Most plants do not put on much growth through the heat of summer. Neutrog Seamungus, an organic combination of seaweed and chook poo is ideal.

• Complete mulching without delay before summer. I recommend Canberra Sand and Gravel’s Canberra Organic Mulch.

The post A peony for your thoughts appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

FEEDING plants is possibly one of the most misunderstood aspects of gardening, especially in pots.

Have you noticed, when using liquid fertilisers for outdoor pot plants, how much simply runs straight through the potting mix?

In reality, modern potting mixes are not the ideal medium for growing plants in pots. They have been designed to be lightweight and easy to handle and offer perfect drainage.

Quoting the respected garden writer, Nigel Colborn: “‘Feeds’ and ‘feeding’ are questionable terms. They imply that plants are sustained with regular feeds, like livestock.

“However, plants take most of what they need from the air plus water and tiny quantities of naturally occurring minerals in the soil.”

I believe that many of the hungry hybrids with outsize flowers, mainly bred for the show bench, are not what most gardeners want.

As Colborn goes on to say: “Surely, the aim is to achieve happy, long-lasting plants that are easier to look after, less disease prone and coping with adverse weather.

“This does not condone starvation as plants that are short of key nutrients will look unattractive and perform badly. But if the soil is kept in excellent heart with regular dressings of rotted compost, a healthy earthworm population and good drainage the plants will give much in return without the use of chemical manufactured food”.

Plus the use of organic mulch to minimise evaporation and keep the soil cooler.

IT is vital for our government and private schools to encourage productive gardens. Naturally, this involves the encouragement of parents with finding a space at home for their children’s garden.

Majura Primary School has the largest school garden in Canberra.

In Britain, 17,400 schools are now registered with the Royal Horticultural Society’s “Campaign for School Gardening” with more than 100 achieving a five-star rating.

In the future, these “five-star gardening schools” must show they use teaching and learning across the curriculum, and to involve the wider community in growing and cooking activities.

To further show the school’s curriculum has been advanced to make use of the garden in as many subjects as possible. From art through to maths and even religious studies discussing, for example, the plants in the Bible to those in Shakespeare’s works.

A prime local example of this is the Majura Primary School at Watson, which is linked to the Stephanie Alexander Kitchen Garden Foundation’s promotion of skills for learning and for life. More information at kitchengardenfoundation.org.au

Jottings…

● Thin fruit, especially apples, for bigger fruit, less every second-year fruiting and less broken branches in strong winds.

● Remove suckers around the base of the trunk from fruit and ornamental trees such as crabapples. Tearing the suckers off lessens the chance of resprouting.

● Finish planting out tender veggies and sow seeds of French and runner beans.

● Sow a few lettuce each week rather than a whole punnet at once for successive picking.

● Finish trimming box hedging and similar plants before the real heat of summer.

The post Gardening: When feeding goes to pot appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

SOME of the softest and most delicate looking plants – often termed English cottage garden plants – belie their hardiness.

The stunning new Dianthus “Sugar Plum”.

With these rare exceptions, every plant since that time has been introduced into Britain and it is only due to the long period of growing there that they have been termed as “English”.

The so-called English Box or Buxus was only introduced into Britain from the Mediterranean region by the Romans. Pollens, which can survive for thousands of years, have enabled botanists to determine the exact variety and origin.

It is unfortunate that many folk shun “English” plants in gardens here because many, especially the mediterranean-region plants, are ideally suited to our harsh climate with long periods of dry.

Another example so beloved of cottage gardeners is the Dianthus family, commonly known as “pinks”. My edition of the plant dictionary “Hortus Third” lists more than 200 varieties and cultivars – and this is the 1976 edition! There are possibly another 100 that have been bred since then.

Old-fashioned Dianthus barbatus or Sweet William.

Many long-time gardeners will be familiar with the old favourites such as Dianthus “Doris” or D. “Mrs Sinkins”. And now there is the prospect of a new range of Dianthus, grown by the wholesale nursery Plant Growers of Australia and distributed through local garden centres.

The PGA’s collection of Dianthus is recognised worldwide as the leading award-winning collection through 75 years of dedication to excellence and plant breeding.

This collection comes direct from the world’s only commercial Dianthus specialists known as Whetman Pinks. I have illustrated here one of my favourites, Dianthus “Sugar Plum”, with its rich colours. Contrasting this is the white with a splash of red in the centre of D. “Coconut Sundae”. Other fun names include D. “Slap and Tickle”, D. “Passion” and D. “Waterloo Sunset”.

Here’s Roy’s collection of new Dianthus. Until I created this garden, Roy’s only role was mowing. Now, with his new garden and retirement, this has meant a whole new interest in gardening and life. Roy can be seen still mowing his new lawn, but in addition he’s also dead-heading the Dianthus or the Callistemons, feeding his plants – using only organic plant nutrients – plus growing and harvesting a great range of herbs. And I know that Patricia thinks it is just great seeing Roy’s interest in their garden.

AT flower shows, like the Horticultural Society of Canberra’s recent successful spring shows, even seasoned gardeners find out about new plants.

The UK’s Royal Horticultural Society has found that the more long-term gardeners (and even more so those new to gardening) immerse themselves in gardening, the more their eyes are opened.

Often it is the old-fashioned plants that come back into their own, especially perennials now reappearing at garden centres or on plant stalls at flower shows or fetes.

Likewise, it is great to see the increased interest in community gardens, originally known as allotments, which came into prominence during the wars and the “Dig for Victory” campaigns.

After World War II, interest in allotments waned and they largely fell into disuse.

However, in Britain there has been an upsurge in the demand for them and, indeed, we are seeing a similar experience in Canberra now with waiting lists for sites. The Canberra Organic Garden Growers Association operates 12 gardens here.

More information at cogs.asn/communitygardens

The post The hardy, softy plants appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

THERE is nothing more soothing than the sound of water on a hot day.

And a water feature, with a small fountain and water plants, such as water lilies, is becoming popular among people with limited space such as a unit balcony or a townhouse.

The container can be ceramic or a wooden barrel, though you have to be careful to avoid the problems of contaminated water if there are fish in the container.

It’s also a good idea to keep the mosquito larvae under control.

I SAW this great idea while in Holland earlier this year. Similar to a round plastic kid’s floatie, it’s made of plastic with a ring suitable for fitting in a 200mm plant container. The whole ring floats and there is no soil in the base of the container, resulting in clean water for fish. Replacing the waterplants or if the plant dies it’s just a matter of lifting the pot out of the “floatie” and replacing it. But remember, in water features chemical fertilisers cannot be used if fish are in the water. I showed this idea to Bruno at The Heritage Nursery and, in no time at all, he now has these in stock.

Originally, peat was used in potting mixes to hold moisture. However, for obvious environmental reasons, peat is no longer harvested. So, for hanging gardens, try mixing one third clay soil in with the potting mix. Then add a plant food that, in itself, holds water and slowly breaks down adding nutrients. Neutrog Seamungus, a combination of pelletised seaweed and chook poo, is ideal for this purpose. It is certified organic and can be used on any and every plant.

ANOTHER misconception with potted plants, as Nigel Colborn, of the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society points out, “is that ailing plants, whatever their affliction, will recover more quickly if given an extra feed”.

“This is fallacious, of course,” he says. “The addition of a good dose of nitrogen-rich fertiliser on the root zone of a sick plant is likely to be its execution.

“The sick plant may be nothing to do with feeding, but simply a case of over or under watering. In the drought, when called upon to give garden advice, I found more plants died from overwatering than any other cause.

“If the soil is looked after, the plants will, once established, largely look after themselves”.

Finally, there is nothing better than your own compost, as you know exactly what it contains.

Jottings…

• Cut back Michaelmas Daisies by two thirds, even if buds are forming. This will quadruple the blooms at flowering time in early autumn.

• Cut back scraggly cooking thymes to encourage fresh growth. Finely chop and freeze the cut pieces for later use.

• A good organic way to get rid of “pear and cherry tree slug” is to simply throw fine sand over and under the leaves. The sand sticks to these critters and they will simply fall off.

• It’s still not too late to plant dahlia tubers, but do get on with it.

The post Cheerfully going to water appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

DESPITE the difficult spring, with hugely varying temperatures and rainfall, the petunias are in, the early flowering shrubs have been pruned and it is a time for relaxation.

Banksia “Birthday Candles” at the Eurobodalla Botanic Gardens.

It is the time of family reunions and showing off your garden to one and all.

It’s always especially heartening to look back at photos taken of a new garden started a few years previously.

It is also a good time to look at other gardens, our own Botanical Gardens for instance, or the Eurobodalla Botanic Gardens, seven kilometres south of Batemans Bay on the Princes Highway, just before Mogo.

An interesting inhabitant of the Botanic Gardens.

The flower displays are quite something and the Rotary Mobility Trail has been especially designed for easy access for those with disabilities. Combine this with a visit to the famous Mogo Zoo only a few kilometres away.

Corymbia “Southern Beauty” in Mogo.

• Have someone check your garden and house.
• If you have an automatic watering system, recognise that things can go wrong, so this needs checking.
• If you have lots of potted plants, these will need watering every couple of days.
• Make sure all the garden tools are securely locked away.
• Indoor plants can be put in the bath or laundry tub (with an old towel under the pots to prevent scratching) and fill with a few centimetres of water.

FINALLY, for that last-minute present, how about a gift voucher from your local garden centre (I also have them available for garden advice, call me on 6241 8752) or a copy of “The Canberra Gardener”, available from newsagents and bookshops, especially for those moving into a new home?

The post Time to get out and enjoy other gardens appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

Starting a new garden? Look for ideas around the neighbourhood.

WELCOME to a new year in the garden and if you’re new to gardening in Canberra or starting a new garden, it’s a good idea to observe which plants grow well around your neighbourhood.

If you are unsure of a plant, just knock on the door. I’m sure most householders will only be too delighted to answer your query.

Make your list, but delay planting during the heat of summer, wait until autumn – just eight weeks away.

I have been writing local garden columns for nearly 30 years and am now getting the hang of what grows here!

I write specifically about our local climate, unlike national garden magazines or TV shows, which tend to concentrate on our major cities, all of which are on the coast.

You can always flick back to previous editions of my weekly gardening column at citynews.com.au, just click on the “Home and Garden” section.

IF you’re holidaying at home and have taken my advice not to work in the garden, except for watering, it’s a great opportunity to check out the latest offerings in gardening books. Here are three suggested titles:

In “The Allure of Orchids” (National Library, rrp $34.95), author Mark A Clements shares his passion for the largest group of flowering plants on earth. Australia has 1305 species of native orchids with wonderful names such as Fringed Hare Orchid, Fire and Beak orchids or Flying Duck orchid. This truly beautiful book is illustrated by more than 25 artists and when, as a visiting scientist at Kew Gardens, London, Clements had the opportunity to examine the work of one of the world’s greatest botanical artists, Ferdinand Bauer, and has included examples in his book. Bauer was the botanist on board Matthew Flinders’ “Investigator”, which circumnavigated Australia between 1801 and 1803.

Here’s one of the best easy-to-follow books on community gardens, having seen many such books over the last 30 years. “Community Gardens, the beginner’s guide to growing crops in a small space” (Penguin/Dorling Kindersley, hardcover, rrp $35) features step-by-step instructions illustrated clearly on every page that will have even the rankest amateur gardener producing home veggies within weeks. Recipes and tips on storing, freezing and preserving are all included.

“Australian Coastal Gardens” (Murdoch Books, hardcover, rrp $89.99) by Myles Balderwin is a book of ideas and inspiration, not only for the coast, but gardens everywhere. Sue Stubbs’ photos and accompanying text complete this book that will seduce you with its ideas.

Win a book

Cedric has a copy of “The Allure of Orchids” (National Library, rrp $34.95) to give to one lucky reader. Write your name, suburb and a contact phone number on the back of an envelope and post to “Orchid Book”, CityNews, GPO Box 2448 Civic 2601. The winner will be announced in the edition of January 30.

The post Gardening: Happy new garden! appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

Most hand watering is a waste of time, says Cedric Bryant.

IN heatwave conditions the aim is not to panic, plants are much tougher than most of us think. It is important that trees and shrubs are watered out at the drip line, not by the trunk.

Recently, I saw a gentleman watering a huge gum tree on the nature strip. He was pouring a bucket of water right at the trunk!

It may make him feel better, but it is useless for the health of the tree. Most hand watering is a complete waste of time, with water running off and never reaching the roots.

Imagine an umbrella with the handle the trunk and the water running off the opened top. That outer edge is the drip line similar to the tree canopy. For small trees make an earthen bank round the tree or shrub to hold at least three buckets of water at the one time, depending on the size of the plant.

If using a drip system in extreme conditions operate the system for one to two hours in the morning and repeat in the evening. This only needs to be done once a week and your plants should be fine. A drip system, which is the ideal way of watering, does not need to be turned on every day.

For example, hydrangeas flop in the daytime heat and bounce back next morning. Plants do not have to be watered every time you see the leaves wilt. There were possibly more plants lost during the drought from overwatering than under watering. All they need is a good deep soaking once a week.

The post Heatwave: Don’t panic in the garden appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

IN heatwave conditions the aim is not to panic, plants are much tougher than most of us think. It is important that trees and shrubs are watered out at the drip line, not by the trunk.

Recently, I saw a gentleman watering a huge gum tree on the nature strip. He was pouring a bucket of water right at the trunk!

It may make him feel better, but it is useless for the health of the tree.

Imagine an umbrella with the handle the trunk and the water running off the opened top. That outer edge is the drip line similar to the tree canopy. For small trees make an earthen bank round the tree or shrub to hold at least three buckets of water at the one time, depending on the size of the plant.

If using a drip system in extreme conditions operate the system for one to two hours in the morning and repeat in the evening. This only needs to be done once a week and your plants should be fine. A drip system, which is the ideal way of watering, does not need to be turned on every day.

For example, hydrangeas flop in the daytime heat and bounce back next morning. Plants do not have to be watered every time you see the leaves wilt. There were possibly more plants lost during the drought from overwatering than under-watering. All they need is a good deep soaking once a week. Most hand watering is a complete waste of time, with water running off and never reaching the roots.

GARDENS should be fun and not a chore, and give the “wow” factor when friends visit.

Fun boots for the garden.

Just look at the fun item of boots in a garden. Maybe the owners are demonstrating how hard they have worked over the years?

Last year we visited our daughter in Holland and reIatives in England. Naturally, we visited numerous gardens and garden centres full of fun items besides just plants. These were in demand for private gardens and parks with topiary as one of the top sellers. There were many examples of full-size animals, from giraffes to rhinos and everything in between (top image).

HERE’S a New Year resolution best carried out in autumn: “Plant a tree, because full, healthy trees make for full, healthy lives”.

Autumn may seem a long way off but it is only five or so short weeks away. Autumn is planting time and plants will survive better, with more stable weather conditions and usually autumn rain. The ground is still warm to encourage plenty of root growth so the plants are well established before the heat of next summer.

IT is easy to think of spring and the massed display of bulbs but overlook autumn, which can be as equally floriferous as spring. It is not too late to plant nerines, the most popular variety being the pink Nerine bowdenii, a showy bulb with spidery flowers that last for an incredibly long time as a cut flower. The only demand is changing the water regularly.

Do look out for the rare Nerine flexuosa “Alba” with equally stunning white flowers.

It is getting rather late for planting dahlia tubers, however most garden centres have them available in pots.

The post It’s hot, don’t panic! appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

MANY climbing plants in your garden will possibly be getting completely out of hand.

How do you deal with them and when is the best time to deal with this rampant growth?

Time to start summer pruning wisteria.

Do this all over the vine. You will also need to do this again in winter to a lesser degree. This will reward you with more stems and flowers next spring.

ASTERS, commonly known as Michaelmas daisies, are a long-lasting autumn perennial.

Some weeks ago I suggested reducing the growth of these and chrysanthemums by two thirds, even if flower buds were showing. This encourages more stems and more flowers. Believe it or not, it is again time to do some more cutting back. This time cut only about one third off and, yes, you will be cutting off lots of flower buds.

But fear not, in autumn this will result in a stunning, long-lasting display. Plus, when they have finished flowering – like all perennials – in winter you can simply dig up the clump and divide it to give you dozens of extra plants.

FAST becoming one of the all-time favourites for autumn flowers is Sedum “Autumn Joy” with its large fleshy leaves and big heads of pink flowers resembling broccoli. How can one have an autumn garden without chrysanthemums? As we all know, this is the traditional flower for Mother’s Day. If I had several garden pages in “CityNews”, I could bring you pictures of all these to brighten your day.

All my garden pages are online, so you can back track to previous editions by simply going to citynews.com.au and click on “home and garden”.

SOME folk positively dislike Anemone hupehensis or Japanese wind flowers, only because they multiply too fast. Once I was severely reprimanded by a reader, suggesting I had made an error in recommending this plant and expecting a correction the following week! Isn’t that what we expect of plants? If you have too many simply thin them out. For the back of the garden bed there is no flower more showy with both pink and white blooms.

Bulb catalogues will be arriving soon.

Most local garden centres have been around for a long time, surviving economic recession to drought, answering gardeners’ problems, from pests to failed plants. Buying on line means you have no idea of the quality of plants or even if they survive the mail etcetera.

Bulbs are graded according to size and quality; how do you know the quality compared with visiting your local garden centre to be able to pick out the biggest and healthiest bulbs for a floral show for many years to come? My message is, support your local business and they will support you.

Keep bird baths full.

Then why do I receive emails asking how to get rid of these songsters? Its only crime is spreading mulch on to paths when looking for worms and other insects. Please no emails this year about getting rid of one of our favourite birds in the garden, thank you!

Jottings…

• Please keep both a bird bath and a large plant saucer at ground level full. The latter for geckos and blue tongue lizards.
• Do not overwater tomatoes every time you see the leaves wilt or you will end up with watery, tasteless toms.
• Cut helleborus leaves back to ground level. This allows for better development of flowers next winter.
• Spent hydrangea flowers can be trimmed, using dried flower heads for floral decoration.
• Deep water citrus trees out at the drip line, not by the trunk.
• For small trees, make an earthen bank round the tree or shrub to hold at least three buckets of water at the one time, depending on the size of the plant.

The post Give climbers the big chop appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

A WOMAN has been hospitalised with minor injuries after a two-car accident in Gordon this afternoon. 

Police were notified about the incident at about 12.08pm, which took place at the intersection of Woodcock Drive and Jim Pike Avenue.

All cars have been taken off the road and traffic is flowing normally.

According to the ESA two patients were assessed at the scene, with one female driver taken to Canberra Hospital with minor injuries.

The post Woman hospitalised after two-car crash appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

THE Escallonia bifida is an extremely hardy evergreen shrub flowering in summer/early autumn.

Close-up of Escallonia bifida.

As an example of its hardiness, the specimen pictured in our garden was about 4.5m tall until we did an extension. Then it had to be severely pruned back to 2m tall, ending up with no leaves, just bare branches.

Within six months it was in full leaf and flower, as seen here.

There are more than 50 varieties of Escallonia grown, although some are harder to find than others. Most gardeners are familiar with Escallonia.

“Hedge with an Edge”, a low-growing, pink-flowered shrub, ideal for bordering paths. This is also sold under E. “Pink Pixie”.

Six months’ new growth on Escallonia bifida.

Being from South America, dry weather does not worry them.

YEARS ago I recommended pine needles as mulch. It is particularly beneficial when the loose needles on top are scraped back to use the composting needles underneath.

Then the 2003 fires came and most of the pine forests went. However, there are still pockets of pine trees in the suburbs and this mulch is free. It can be used as is or shredded, say with the mower, for a finer mulch, ie on the tops of pots. Pine needles are perfect for acid-loving plants such as daphne, rhododendron, azaleas and all Aussie plants.

THE long-held idea of not planting roses where they have been planted previously has now been turned on its head in the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society’s latest edition of “The Garden”. Colin Crosbie, curator of the RHS Garden at Wisley, reports that “this is no longer held as a universal truth, but what has endured as the most important factor is good soil. Improving it with the addition of well-rotted farmyard manure or garden compost is the start.”

Crosbie goes on to say that thoughts on planting depths have also changed. Most of us were taught to plant roses with the bud graft union at level with, or slightly above, the surrounding soil level.

Nowadays, best practice is to plant with the graft union buried a few centimetres below the surrounding soil level, as this will reduce “wind rock”, particularly in windy areas as is the case in Canberra and especially in new, exposed areas.

This news may help influence new plantings or replacing roses when the new stock arrives in winter.

Watch out for kinks

A kink in an irrigation drip line could cost you plants!

This photo clearly illustrates what can happen, in this case in our garden, where a kink in the line meant no water was getting to the plants. It is essential to ensure drip lines are on top of the soil and under the mulch. This may mean lifting drip lines if buried in soil and at the same time checking there are no kinks or breaks in the line. I suggest this as a matter of urgency as this month is predicted to be just as hot as January.

Jottings…

• Do not let container-grown camellias dry out as they are now forming buds for next year.

• Stop tomatoes after four fruit trusses have set; more will possibly not ripen in time.

• Keep feeding container plants with high potassium, such as tomato food, for continuous flowering.

• Trim lavender to remove old flower spikes just into the old wood.

The post Hardy evergreen that loves hot weather appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

WITH the distinct possibility of more extreme heat before autumn, it is important not to cut back heat-affected foliage.

Browning on the tips of the leaves… an indication of a plant needing water.

The first indication that plants are stressed is a browning on the tips of the leaves, as illustrated here. This indicates insufficient water at the root zone to draw moisture up into the plant’s leaves.

Repeating the advice of a few weeks ago; if the plants are not on a drip irrigation system most hand watering is a waste of water, time and energy.

With the ground so hard, water will simply run off. The only effective way of hand watering is to form a moat around the plant, preferably with soil. How large will depend on the size of the plant, but even a plant half to one metre tall will require a moat that holds at least 2-3 buckets of water.

I HAVE had several inquiries regarding the old building featured in the January 30 garden page with the wonderful display of wisteria and the lime-green of Euphorbia wulfenii. It was the old Rosebank Inn, at Yass, which was built by Thomas Laidlaw about 1840. Later it became a private residence and is one of the oldest buildings in the town.

Prize-winning dahlia blooms protected from sun and rain.

The tubers were grown by the Aztecs as a food source. This practice died out after the Spanish Conquest, although not so the flowers.

They were introduced into Europe and Britain via the Spanish colonisers and took the flower world by storm.

In Canberra we have Australia’s champion dahlia growers and there is a chance to see possibly the largest display of dahlias in the country at the Canberra Horticultural Society’s Autumn Flower Show, at the Wesley Church Centre, National Circuit Forrest, on the weekend of March 1-2. This year it encompasses the Australian Open Dahlia Championships.

The show opens on the Saturday, after judging, at noon and 11.30am to 3.45pm on the Sunday. Entry is free and the plant stall is always a feature.

RECENTLY, I was reading of the suggestion of children growing hyacinth bulbs in a special hyacinth-growing vase (available from garden centres).

While I am all for encouraging children to garden, it is important to always wear gloves when handling hyacinth bulbs, as the husk can cause a nasty skin rash.

WITH the assistance of Keith Colls, of the Canberra Organic Garden Growers Society, I have completely updated my vegetable guide, including many veggies not listed before. Go to cedricbryant.com and, at the home page, click on Cedfacts and scroll down.

Jottings…

• As the fruit on many citrus varieties such as Eureka are maturing now, apply an extra feed of Neutrog Seamungus, a combination of chook poo and seaweed. Do not allow to dry out, especially if container grown.

• If you grow your own annuals from seed, now is sowing time.

• Complete dead-heading spent flowers on rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.

• Don’t let roses dry out and apply a foliar feed in the cool of the day to encourage an autumn flower display.

• It’s not too late to lift spring bulbs that may be in the wrong place for replanting next month.

• Know a friend or new neighbour recently moved to Canberra or Queanbeyan? Give them a copy of the Canberra Horticultural Society’s “The Canberra Gardener”, available from newsagents and bookshops.

The post Hang on to scorched foliage appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

AS we go into a Mexican-type climate, there is resurgence in the interest of cacti and succulents, with their flowers of outstanding variety and colour.

This was evident with the display by the Cactus and Succulent Society of the ACT at the last Horticultural Society show.

When visiting our daughter Yvette, who lives in Holland, I saw the amazing display of cacti pictured here.

A small section of one of the largest cacti collections in Holland.

Her hobby, even at a sprightly 78, still takes her to many parts of Holland looking for rare specimens. She can tell you within a few days when each cactus is due to flower. Note particularly the cleanliness on the benches and floor; good housekeeping is vital for keeping diseases at bay.

If you are interested in knowing more about these amazing plants the Cactus and Succulent Society meets at the Hughes Community Centre, 10.30am-12.30pm, on the third Sunday of every month. Activities include pot and plant sales, bus trips, displays and talks on the best plants for our climate. More information from cactusact.org.au or call president Jackie Warburton on 0414 845238.

I AM still receiving stress calls from gardeners with heat-related plant problems, so far not from heat-affected owners!

One frequent query is that many deciduous trees are dropping leaves as in autumn. For mature trees this is not normally a problem, as they go into early winter hibernation mode. If, by chance, we receive sustained rain in the next few weeks they could, quite out of sequence, start sprouting new leaves. They may still not lose all their leaves until autumn and will bounce back next spring after their extended rest.

HOWEVER, in some gardens I have been asked to look at, there are native plants that are dying in the heat. Usually, these have been planted in the last one to two years and are not fully established. In each garden, all the plants are being irrigated with drip irrigation. There is little evidence of exotic plants nearby being affected by the heat. Some of the native plants not surviving include correa, banksia, callistemon and kangaroo paws.

MERYLYN Condon, of 2CC’s gardening show on Saturday and Sunday mornings, is leading a tour to the Chelsea Flower Show from May 11 to 23. The tour also includes many famous English gardens including Sissinghurst Castle and Great Dixter. With only a few vacancies left, bookings to goseetouring.com or 1300 551997.

Jottings…

• Plant calendula flowers for winter colour, especially around veggies to discourage insects.
• Watch out for caterpillars at this time. Spray with Dipel, a natural bio-insecticide non-toxic to humans. Spray under the leaves and on the ground under the plant.
• Continue to plant English spinach, so much tastier that so-called spinach or silver beet.
• Give Asters (Michaelmas daisies) and chrysanthemums their last feed before autumn flowering with Seasol Powerfeed.

The post Prickly surge as gardens go cactus appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

Howard Hollingsworth’s basket of just a few of the tomato varieties he grows.

Most garden writers provide their infinite wisdom of how to grow tomatoes at the beginning of the season. Just to be different, I bring you the expert knowledge of Howard so that you will have more success next year. Recently, Howard gave us a basket with just a few of the varieties he grows in the open garden, picking them four weeks before Christmas.

His secret is that, in late winter, he grows a green crop of mustard seed. When it’s about 30cm high, he digs it into the soil with garden lime. Then he plants the tomatoes with at least four sets of leaves under the soil and mulches with Lucerne hay (for its nitrogen content). The tomatoes are grown under shadecloth. After planting no other fertilisers, chemical or organic sprays are used.

Howard likes to stress the tomatoes by only watering every 7-9 days.

In the basket were Ponderosa Red, Ponderosa Pink, Pederson’s Beefsteak, Polish, Hungarian Heart, Tommy Toe, Moneymaker and Elfie.

Crepe myrtles… an outstanding shrub for autumn colour.

THE famous Collector’s Plant Fair weekend is more than a month away but, given the popularity of the event, accommodation nearby can be at a premium. This yearly event is held at the Hawkesbury Race Course, Clarendon, near Windsor, on April 12-13. More than 50 specialist growers from all over NSW and Victoria attend with keynote speakers from the UK and the US. More information at collectorsplantfair.com

I LIKE this quotation from the eminent British landscape architect, Russell Page (1906-1985): “When folk visit your garden, remember that one of your aims must be to lift people, if only for a moment, above their daily preoccupations. Even a glimpse of beauty will enable them to make a healing contact with their inner world. Nor must you ascribe such an idea as sentimentality. It is one most valid and justification for gardens and gardeners.”

THE demand for sun hats and proper sunglasses has been huge with the recent rolling heatwaves. The place to buy these used to be the now-closed Cancer Council shop at Fairbairn. But don’t despair, the Sun Protection Shop at Federation Square, Gold Creek Village, off the Barton Highway, stocks the official Cancer Council range. Call 6230 2887.

Dwarf crepe myrtles… ideal for growing in containers.

• From now until the end of April is bulb planting time.

• Have a look at perennials in your garden. If the dried flowers have a full head of seeds, sprinkle them around in bare spots. Then the perennials can be dug and divided to further fill bare spots.

• Sow sweet peas against a wire or lattice frame for support.

• Don’t be misled, the recent rain has barely laid the dust and watering should continue as normal. Plants growing close to the house or under the eaves will have received no rain, so do not neglect these areas.

• Keep the fork out of garden beds if you have drip irrigation installed!

Win a book

GIVEN the interest in last week’s subject of cacti and succulents, there’s an excellent book on the subject called “Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates” by Leo J. Chance (Timber Press, 2012). It lists 274 outstanding species for challenging conditions of extreme heat to cold.

I have a copy of this for one lucky reader. Write your name, suburb and a contact phone number on the back of an envelope and send it to Cedric’s Cactus Book, GPO Box 2448, Canberra 2601 by Friday, March 14. The winner will be announced in the edition of March 20.

The post Gardening: Howard’s way with tomatoes appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

THE soft ground from the wonderful (and so welcome) recent rain makes it an ideal time to dig and divide perennials.

The long-flowering Campanula “Telham Beauty”

Perennials are one of the most useful groups of plants for any garden, for several very good reasons. Many, such as Campanula persicifolia “Telham Beauty”, illustrated here, flower for an extended period. This is one of a large group of Campanula commonly known as “Canterbury Bells”. Ours started flowering in mid spring and, despite all the extreme heat, are flowering still.

From now and over the next couple of months perennials should be dug up and divided. Normally, just one perennial grown for a couple of seasons when dug and divided will give you at least 10 extra plants. When dividing, I suggest you replant the largest of the group back into its original position. All these extra plants are ideal for filling in gaps in the garden beds.

I always replant in groups of threes, fives or sevens for a more effective display providing bold groups of colour.

If you do not have room for these extra plants, simply pot them up in a premium potting mix for your next school or church fete plant stall. Once potted, keep them watered and apply Maxicrop Seaweed Plant Nutrient every few weeks to promote extra root growth.

Another plus is that most perennials produce an abundance of seed. To collect the seed when the flowers are almost finished, place a brown paper bag over the flowers and tie round the stalk. Do not use a plastic bag as the condensation inside will rot the seeds. You may think the paper bag will fall apart in rain, this is not the case.

When you can hear the seeds rattle in the bag, simply cut the flower stalk. Do not forget to write the name of the plant on the bag. Once again, scatter the seeds in your garden or give to the plant stall.

The stunning ground cover Alstroemeria “Princess Zsa Zsa”

During the recent heatwave, ours suffered and looked pretty awful. So I cut them to ground level with not a leaf to be seen. Now, three weeks later, the leaves have regrown and they have flowered again for autumn. They look just as effective in a container or a hanging garden, if you only have a balcony.

Now is a good time to select a range of autumn flower perennials from your local garden centre and plant out. You can then enjoy the flowers over autumn and into winter.

By next autumn they will be ready to divide. Let me give you an example, a few years ago our then 10-year-old granddaughter and I dug up a range of perennials from our garden for fund raising.

I was doing the digging and keeping the barrow full of potting mix. Rebecca was doing the actual dividing and potting. In several hours, over two weekends, we potted up 1080 perennials! The only cost being the plastic pots and potting mix. At the end of the day, you could not see where we had taken them from in the garden. What a bonus for filling in gaps in your own garden or for the plant stall.

Other autumn perennials now in flower in garden centres include Anemone hupehensis or Japanese wind flower, Chrysanthemums, Asters or Michaelmas daisies, Sedum “Autumn Joy” and Salvias of every colour.

Jottings… This week my advice is to simply get out into the garden and start dividing perennials once they have finished flowering.

The post Gardening: The joy of perennial favourites appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

THE UK’s Royal Horticultural Society recently invited its members to list their favourite scented plants for each season

Thousands of online entries poured in for “Scents of the Seasons” as members rated their favourites from one to five stars.

I have only listed here one or two of the top-rated plants for each season. Five stars represent the highest rating for a plant that carries its fragrance strongly in the air; four stars if the fragrance is detectable at a distance and so forth to one star for only a minor fragrance

Starting with spring, three plants received the top five-star rating – Wisteria floribunda, with its heady fragrance of honeyed fruity fragrance; Rhododendron lutea with its rather exotic scent and Viburnum burkwoodii.

For autumn, only one plant out of 15 listed rated five stars. This was Clerodendrum bungei, a small deciduous plant with its strong fruity, heady fragrance and bright orange flowers. I noticed some of these in stock at the Heritage Nursery in Yarralumla last week.

And for winter, the long-flowering Daphne bholua with its sophisticated, clove-tinged perfume, received five stars. This is one of my favourites with ours reaching three metres tall.

The next winter favourite with four-stars was Sarcococca confusa, a small compact evergreen shrub with honey-scented flowers.

While these ratings were in Britain, all the listed plants are available and grow well in Canberra.

LANYON Homestead, in conjunction with Open Gardens Australia, will hold its annual plant fair, 10am to 4pm, on the weekend of March 22-23. An amazing collection of plants from bulbs to trees plus garden art and more will be offered for sale. Remember autumn is planting time. Entry is $10, which includes all the talks, walks and exhibitions.

REGRETTABLY, the free CIT Plant Clinic at the School of Horticulture has been discontinued because there were too few inquiries to sustain the service. The long-running clinic answered plant problems for home gardeners as well as being part of student training.

THE largest garden show in the Southern Hemisphere, the spectacular Melbourne International Flower and Garden Show, will be held from Wednesday, March 26 to Sunday, March 30, in the grand Exhibition Building and surrounding grounds. I have been a regular visitor and it just seems to get better and better each year. More information at melbourneflowershow.com.au

WHOOPS! A glitch on my computer messed up the updated information sheet “Growing vegies for a healthy life” on my website. For example, you cannot plant pumpkin seeds now! All fixed now, at cedricbryant.com, click “Cedfacts” on the homepage and scroll to the revised version.

Jottings…

• Bulbs ready for planting are arriving at garden centres now.

• Check out the newly expanded Heritage Nursery in Yarralumla. It has taken over the Yarralumla Nursery retail garden centre next door.

• Lightly prune Star Jasmine to keep it under control.

• March is the time to prune conifers, but go easy with the hedge trimmers to not cut into the old wood, from which it will not regrow.

• Trim the old flowers off lavender and cut slightly into the old wood.

The post Gardening: Making scents of a plant survey appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

LOOK for potted Cyclamen hederifolium, just coming into flower. These delightful miniature pink cyclamen pop up unexpectedly in gardens at this time.

Cyclamen hederifolium… the true herald of autumn.

IN the northern hemisphere, St Patrick’s Day is traditionally the time to plant sweet peas.

And despite March being spring there and autumn here, these delightfully fragrant plants seem to do equally well planted in Canberra at this time.

Sweet peas like a well-prepared, deep-root run. One old-timer’s suggestion was to dig a trench 15cm deep, rather than individual holes, if transplanting seedlings.

Fill the trench with a combination of manure and compost. Do not plant the seedlings in the trench, but alongside. The roots will quickly enter the trench and away they go. You will need mesh for the plant to cling to and climb.

If you’re sowing sweet pea seed, here’s an idea from Tom Goward, head gardener of Gravetye Manor in England, who says that as sweet peas like a long root run, try using cardboard tubes from discarded toilet rolls packed together vertically. Being biodegradable, the tubes can be placed in the ground once several sets of leaves appear.

Fill about two thirds with premium potting mix and top up with seed-raising mix. Hold the tubes together with string and place on a tray to stop the soil falling from the bottom. Cover the seeds with damp newspaper and keep in a warm place at about 15C.

To hasten germination, soak the seeds in warm water overnight before sowing. Keep the newspaper damp, but do not water until the first set of leaves appear. Then apply a weak solution of Maxicrop Seaweed Plant Nutrient to encourage root growth. Once two to three sets of leaves appear, plant with the tube into well-prepared soil.

THE 24th Apple Day Harvest Celebration at Loriendale Apple Orchard, 16 Carrington Road via Hall, 1.30pm-5pm, on Saturday, March 29 features locally grown heritage and modern apples, pears and quinces, jams, relishes and chutney. There will be music and activities for children. More information at loriendale.com.au or call 6230 2557.

MARY Murphy, of Kambah, is the winner of the book “Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates” by Leo J. Chance (Timber Press, 2012). Thanks to everyone for having a go at what was my most popular giveaway.

Jottings…

• Keep whippersnippers well away from tree trunks and shrubs. They can ring bark the plant causing death.

• Feed lawns now with Multicrop Lawn Rejuvenator. The three-way action helps break up clay, feeds the lawn and promotes root growth. Available as granular or hose on.

• Look out for snails after the recent rain. Multiguard Snail and Slug Killer is safer for pets, including blue tongue lizards. Recommended by Dr Harry Cooper, the TV vet.

• After rain, dig a small hole and see how far the moisture has penetrated. This may be only a few centimetres and you will need to turn on your drip irrigation.

The post Gardening: Unexpected herald of autumn appeared first on Canberra CityNews.

WITH consistently high temperatures for this time of the year, it is shaping up to be something of an Indian summer, which can be a tricky time for gardeners.

A stunning Laburnum arch…Time to prune Laburnum vossii.

Hopefully, this will give any new growth (encouraged by the continuing warm weather) time to harden off before the first frosts.

It is important not to prune evergreen winter-flowering shrubs such as Camellia sasanqua. Pruning at this time will cut off the flower buds.

ALL pruning is in effect wounding plants. While some trees, when pruned in the peak growing time, can detrimentally and profusely “bleed” sap, pruning now allows the wound to heal more rapidly, with a lower risk of infection. Wounds are best left to heal naturally and not by applying bituminous type pruning paint.

To avoid problems, it’s time to prune the following deciduous trees: Magnolia, Laburnum, Acer (maples), Morus (mulberry) and Tilia (ornamental lime).

Massed tulip plantings at the famous Keukenhof Gardens in Holland… the tulips are almost touching each other.

Smith says: “Being too meagre with planting and the result will be a dotty effect with no cohesion or interplay between the bulbs and groups of colour.”

I saw evidence of this last year at the famous Keukenhof Gardens in Holland. The tulips were almost touching each other. Whereas, at our Floriade, the bulbs were spaced widely apart and the spaces filled in with annuals. This just does not work and as Smith rightly states “ends up with a dotty effect”.

IT’S also broad bean planting time and, if you’re growing Coles Dwarf variety, you don’t even need a garden! Growing to only one metre and producing a heavy crop of pods up to 20cm long, they can be accommodated in containers.

And because they are very easy to grow, producing pods in 80-90 days, they make an ideal starter veggie plant for children. Where space isn’t a problem, sow the taller Aqua Dulce.

WITH the recent rain softening the ground and lawns turning green again, it is coring time. After coring, top dress the lawn with washed river sand, not topsoil. The sand will penetrate the core holes aiding in improved water penetration to the roots. Coring machines can be hired. However, if you have not used one before, I urge caution. They are extremely heavy and I have known people to lose control as the machine charges into garden beds! If you do not know a lawn-coring specialist give me a call on 0418 620424.

AUSTRALIA Post has released a new series of 60c stamps featuring Australian orchids likely to appeal to like-minded orchid lovers here and overseas.

A view across the expanded Heritage Nursery.

Jottings…

• April is an ideal time to lay turf on to well-prepared and levelled ground.
• Plant up pots with spring-flowering bulbs.
• Gooseberries can be planted over the next few weeks. Dig compost or rotted cow manure in and plant them 1-1.5m apart.
• Shred leaves with the mower before putting on to compost heaps. After shredding I put half on to the heap and the rest directly on to garden beds.

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